Recipe

Seaweed Ice Cream

By Sasha Marx

I love desserts that walk the line between sweet and savory without being an exercise in culinary pretentiousness. (Have we finally agreed to stop trying to put bacon in everything? Please say yes.) And yes, seaweed ice cream sounds like we are going all-in on that pretension, but hear us out, because it’s really tasty stuff. This ice cream doesn’t hit you over the head with seaweed flavor—it just adds a can’t-put-your-finger-on-it savory quality to a really delicious sweet-cream ice cream base that executive editor Dan Souza developed after attending the Penn State Ice Cream Short Course. Dan’s recipe produces supercreamy results by using nonfat milk powder to decrease the proportion of water in the recipe (which turns to unwanted ice crystals), cornstarch to bind up water that is in the base, and a little corn syrup to add viscosity and further decrease iciness.

I steep two types of dried seaweed—kombu and hijiki—in the base before straining them out and churning. Kombu is a type of kelp commonly used in Japanese cuisine. It is one of the two primary ingredients used to make dashi, where it provides body and savory depth. Hijiki is a mild-tasting seaweed that adds pleasant vegetal flavor to this ice cream. This ice cream pairs really well with a sprinkling of cocoa nibs for a very different take on classic chocolate chip ice cream. For the full scoop on all things seaweed, check out our feature story, “In the Weeds”

Photography by Steve Klise
F
ood Styling by Marie Piraino 

Yield
Make about 1 quart (1000 grams)
Ingredients
325 g plus 50 g whole milk, divided
355 g heavy cream
85 g corn syrup
8 g dried kombu
4 g dried hijiki
80 g nonfat dry milk powder
75 g sugar
0.8 g kosher salt
15 g cornstarch
1¼ cups plus ¼ cup whole milk, divided
1½ cups heavy cream
¼ cup corn syrup
3  (3- by 4-inch pieces) dried kombu
1 tablespoon dried hijiki
½ cup plus ⅓ cup nonfat dry milk powder
⅓ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch
Essential Equipment
Instructions
    • 325 g whole milk
    • 355 g heavy cream
    • 85 g corn syrup
    • 8 g dried kombu
    • 4 g dried hijiki
    • 80 g nonfat dry milk powder
    • 75 g sugar
    • 0.8 g kosher salt
    Place 325 grams milk, cream, corn syrup, kombu, and hijiki in large saucepan. In small bowl, whisk together milk powder, sugar, and salt; whisk into cream mixture in saucepan until combined. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking frequently to dissolve sugar and break up any clumps, until tiny bubbles form around edge of saucepan and mixture registers 190 degrees F/87.8 degrees C, about 20 minutes. 
    • 50 g whole milk
    • 15 g cornstarch
    Meanwhile, whisk 50 grams milk and cornstarch together in small bowl.  
  1. Whisk cornstarch mixture to recombine, then whisk into milk mixture in saucepan. Cook, constantly scraping bottom of saucepan with rubber spatula, until mixture thickens, about 30 seconds. Immediately strain ice cream base through fine-mesh strainer into large bowl; let cool until no longer steaming, about 20 minutes. Cover bowl and refrigerate until base registers 40 degrees F/ 4.4 degrees C, at least 6 hours or up to 8 hours. (Base can be refrigerated overnight. Alternatively, base can be chilled in about 1½ hours by placing it over ice bath of 750 g ice, 113 g water, and 42 g salt.) 
  2. Churn base in ice cream maker until mixture resembles thick soft-serve ice cream and registers 21 degrees F/-6.1 degrees C. Transfer to airtight container and freeze until hard, at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.  
Instructions
    • 1¼ cups whole milk
    • 1½ cups heavy cream
    • ¼ cup corn syrup
    • 3 (3- by 4-inch pieces) dried kombu
    • 1 tablespoon dried hijiki
    • ½ cup plus ⅓ cup nonfat dry milk powder
    • ⅓ cup sugar
    • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
    Place 1¼ cups milk, cream, corn syrup, kombu, and hijiki in large saucepan. In small bowl, whisk together milk powder, sugar, and salt; whisk into cream mixture in saucepan until combined. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking frequently to dissolve sugar and break up any clumps, until tiny bubbles form around edge of saucepan and mixture registers 190 degrees F/87.8 degrees C, about 20 minutes. 
    • ¼ cup whole milk
    • 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons cornstarch
    Meanwhile, whisk ¼ cup milk and cornstarch together in small bowl.  
  1. Whisk cornstarch mixture to recombine, then whisk into milk mixture in saucepan. Cook, constantly scraping bottom of saucepan with rubber spatula, until mixture thickens, about 30 seconds. Immediately strain ice cream base through fine-mesh strainer into large bowl (discard seaweed); let cool until no longer steaming, about 20 minutes. Cover bowl and refrigerate until base registers 40 degrees F/ 4.4 degrees C, at least 6 hours or up to 8 hours. (Base can be refrigerated overnight. Alternatively, base can be chilled in about 1½ hours by placing it over ice bath of 6 cups ice, ½ cup water, and ⅓ cup salt.) 
  2. Churn base in ice cream maker until mixture resembles thick soft-serve ice cream and registers 21 degrees F/-6.1 degrees C. Transfer to airtight container and freeze until hard, at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.  
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