Recipe

Mushroom Risotto

by Sasha Marx

As discussed in our recent House of Carbs article, the process of risotto cookery is a hot-button topic of debate. While I appreciate, applaud, and often employ innovative approaches to cooking, there are some traditional techniques that I enjoy as much for the process as the end result. Classic risotto definitely falls into that category for me. Some people complain about the tedium of slowly adding stock, little by little, throughout the cooking process, and the pain of constant stirring and attention required by the rice, but I love it. It’s an immersive experience that forces you as a cook to pay full attention to what is happening on the stove in front of you. By focusing on the sights, smells, and especially the sounds happening on your range, you will be more attuned to picking up on those cues in the future when your attention is divided.

An experienced cook can hear when onions are “sweating” in a pan at the right temperature, when enough stock has been absorbed by the rice and it is time to add another ladle, and when the risotto is lapping at the sides of the pot in the perfect all’onda (which translates as “to the wave”) consistency. Sure, as a home cook it’s unlikely that you’re going to put in years of restaurant line cooking to master risotto, but 20 minutes doesn’t seem too bad, right?

For this recipe we have included a number of auditory cues that sync up with important steps in the cooking process. Being able to hear when the bubbling stock in your pot is running low and it’s time to add another ladleful will allow you to step away from the stove in future risotto cooking moments. Pay attention to the soothing sounds of risotto—you’ll be a better cook for it.

Yield
Serves 6
Ingredients
28 g dried porcini mushrooms
1125 g water
900 g chicken broth
18 g soy sauce
28 g plus 28 g vegetable oil, divided
300 g maitake mushrooms, root ends removed and cut into 2-inch pieces
  Kosher salt and pepper
10 g garlic (2 cloves), chopped fine
45 g finely chopped onion
3 g kosher salt
400 g Arborio rice
115 g white wine
56 g unsalted butter
28 g plus 28 g Parmesan cheese, finely grated, divided
7 g fresh parsley, chopped
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
5 cups water
4 cups chicken broth
1 tablespoon soy sauce
11 ounces maitake mushrooms, root ends removed and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
  Kosher salt and pepper
2  garlic cloves, chopped fine
¼ cup finely chopped onion
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups Arborio rice
½ cup white wine
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 ounce plus 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, finely grated, divided
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Essential Equipment
Instructions
    • 28 g dried porcini mushrooms 
    • 1125 g water 
    • 900 g chicken broth 
    • 18 g soy sauce
    Rinse porcini mushrooms in fine-mesh strainer under running water to remove any grit. Bring porcini mushrooms, water, broth, and soy sauce to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until porcini mushrooms are softened and fully hydrated, about 15 minutes. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer set over large bowl. Return broth to saucepan, cover, and keep warm over low heat. Mince porcini mushrooms and set aside.  
    • 28 g vegetable oil 
    • 300 g maitake mushrooms, root ends removed and cut into 2-inch pieces 
    • Kosher salt and pepper 
    • 10 g garlic (2 cloves), chopped fine
    Heat 28 grams oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add maitakes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook until moisture released by mushrooms evaporates and mushrooms are well browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, add garlic, and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer maitake mushroom mixture to small bowl. Wipe pot clean with paper towels.  
    • 28 g vegetable oil 
    • 45 g finely chopped onion 
    • 3 g kosher salt 
    • 400 g Arborio rice 
    • 115 g white wine
    Heat 28 grams oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring frequently, until rice turns translucent at edges, about 4 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring frequently, until rice absorbs wine and pot is nearly dry. Add 55 grams (½ cup) broth and cook, stirring constantly, until broth is mostly absorbed and bubbling is rapid. Continue adding broth, 55 grams (½ cup) at time, allowing bubbling to become rapid between additions, and cook, stirring constantly, until rice is cooked through but firm at center, 15 to 18 minutes (rice may not require all of broth). 
    • 56 g unsalted butter 
    • 28 g plus 28 g Parmesan cheese, finely grated, divided 
    • 7 g fresh parsley, chopped 
    • Kosher salt and pepper
    Off heat, stir in porcini mushrooms and maitake mushrooms, butter, 28 grams Parmesan, parsley, and 55 grams (½ cup) broth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately on warmed plates, sprinkling individual servings with remaining 28 g Parmesan cheese. 
Instructions
    • 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms 
    • 5 cups water 
    • 4 cups chicken broth 
    • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
    Rinse porcini mushrooms in fine-mesh strainer under running water to remove any grit. Bring porcini mushrooms, water, broth, and soy sauce to boil in large saucepan over medium-high heat; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until porcini mushrooms are softened and fully hydrated, about 15 minutes. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer set over large bowl. Return broth to saucepan, cover, and keep warm over low heat. Mince porcini mushrooms and set aside. 
    • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 
    • 11 ounces maitake mushrooms, root ends removed and cut into 2-inch pieces 
    • Kosher salt and pepper 
    • 2 garlic cloves, chopped fine
    Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add maitakes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook until moisture released by mushrooms evaporates and mushrooms are well browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, add garlic, and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer maitake mushroom mixture to small bowl. Wipe pot clean with paper towels.  
    • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 
    • ¼ cup finely chopped onion 
    • 1 teaspoon kosher salt 
    • 2 cups Arborio rice 
    • ½ cup white wine
    Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring frequently, until rice turns translucent at edges, about 4 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring frequently, until rice absorbs wine and pot is nearly dry. Add ½ cup broth and cook, stirring constantly, until broth is mostly absorbed and bubbling is rapid. Continue adding broth, ½ cup at time, allowing bubbling to become rapid between additions, and cook, stirring constantly, until rice is cooked through but firm at center, 15 to 18 minutes (rice may not require all of broth). 
    • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 
    • 1 ounce plus 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, finely grated, divided 
    • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 
    • Kosher salt and pepper
    Off heat, stir in porcini mushrooms and maitake mushrooms, butter, 1 ounce Parmesan, parsley, and ½ cup broth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately on warmed plates, sprinkling individual servings with remaining 1 ounce Parmesan cheese. 
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