Recipe

Olive Oil Ice Cream

by Tim Chin

Olive oil and dairy are a rad combo. The grassy, peppery notes of good extra-virgin olive oil pair perfectly with the rich, unctuous flavor of an oozy burrata or a bowl of freshly made ricotta. Add ice cream to that list. It may sound like an odd combination, but extra-virgin olive oil ice cream is pretty amazing stuff—creamy and sweet, with a hint of savory grassiness and a pleasant back of the throat burn to balance its refreshing chill. But you can’t just stream olive oil into a regular ice cream base and expect success. When I added enough olive oil to a classic base that I could actually taste it, the incredibly high fat content led to a pasty, gummy ice cream. I found that I needed to ditch almost all the milkfat in the base (save for the small amount found in the whole milk) by subbing in water for the heavy cream. That move let me add a full ¾ cup (168 grams) of olive oil, producing a deeply flavored ice cream with great texture. To reinforce the olive oil’s peppery notes, I added a little freshly ground pepper to the mix, giving this ice cream the look of classic vanilla bean ice cream. To learn about the science behind extra-virgin olive oil (and other cooking oils), check out our feature story, Striking Oil.
Photography by Steve Klise
Food Styling by Marie Piraino

Yield
About 1 quart (1,000 grams)
Ingredients
85 g sugar
80 g nonfat dry milk powder
2 g pepper
0.8 g kosher salt
325 g plus 50 g whole milk, divided
236 g water
85 g corn syrup
25 g cornstarch
168 g extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
½ cup plus ⅓ cup nonfat dry milk powder
½ teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1¼ cups plus ¼ cup whole milk, divided
1 cup water
¼ cup corn syrup
2 tablespoons plus 2½ teaspoons cornstarch
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Essential Equipment
Instructions
    • 85 g sugar
    • 80 g nonfat dry milk powder
    • 2 g pepper
    • 0.8 g kosher salt
    • 325 g whole milk
    • 236 g water
    • 85 g corn syrup
    In small bowl, whisk sugar, milk powder, pepper, and salt together. Whisk sugar mixture, 325 grams milk, water, and corn syrup together in large saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until tiny bubbles form around edge of saucepan and mixture registers 190 degrees F/87.8 degrees C, whisking frequently to dissolve sugar and break up any clumps, 5 to 7 minutes.
    • 50 g whole milk
    • 25 g cornstarch
    Meanwhile, whisk 50 grams milk and cornstarch together in small bowl.
    • 168 g extra-virgin olive oil
    Reduce heat to medium. Whisk cornstarch mixture to recombine, then whisk into milk mixture in saucepan. Cook, constantly scraping bottom of saucepan with rubber spatula, until mixture thickens, about 30 seconds. Immediately pour ice cream base through fine-mesh strainer into large bowl; let cool until no longer steaming, about 20 minutes. Whisk in oil in steady stream until smooth. Cover bowl, transfer to refrigerator, and chill to 40 degrees F/ 4.4 degrees C, at least 6 or up to 8 hours. (Base can be refrigerated overnight. Alternatively, base can be chilled in about 1½ hours by placing it over ice bath of 750 grams ice, 113 grams water, and 42 grams salt.)
  1. Churn base in ice cream maker until mixture resembles thick soft-serve ice cream and registers 21 degrees F/-6.1 degrees C. Transfer to airtight container, cover, transfer to freezer, and freeze until hard, at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.
Instructions
    • ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
    • ½ cup plus ⅓ cup nonfat dry milk powder
    • ½ teaspoon pepper
    • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
    • 1¼ cups whole milk
    • 1 cup water
    • ¼ cup corn syrup
    In small bowl, whisk sugar, milk powder, pepper, and salt together. Whisk sugar mixture, 1¼ cups milk, water, and corn syrup together in large saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat until tiny bubbles form around edge of saucepan and mixture registers 190 degrees F/87.8 degrees C, whisking frequently to dissolve sugar and break up any clumps, 5 to 7 minutes.
    • ¼ cup whole milk
    • ¼ cup cornstarch
    Meanwhile, whisk ¼ cup milk and cornstarch together in small bowl.
    • ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
    Reduce heat to medium. Whisk cornstarch mixture to recombine, then whisk into milk mixture in saucepan. Cook, constantly scraping bottom of saucepan with rubber spatula, until mixture thickens, about 30 seconds. Immediately pour ice cream base through fine-mesh strainer into large bowl; let cool until no longer steaming, about 20 minutes. Whisk in oil in steady stream until smooth. Cover bowl, transfer to refrigerator, and chill to 40 degrees F/ 4.4 degrees C, at least 6 or up to 8 hours. (Base can be refrigerated overnight. Alternatively, base can be chilled in about 1½ hours by placing it over ice bath of 6 cups ice, ½ cup water, and ⅓ cup salt.)
  1. Churn base in ice cream maker until mixture resembles thick soft-serve ice cream and registers 21 degrees F/-6.1 degrees C. Transfer to airtight container, cover, transfer to freezer, and freeze until hard, at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours.
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